tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8332998900846773022024-03-13T22:53:39.524-07:00Autos, Cars, Vehicles, Watercrafts, Aircrafts & SpacecraftsJeane's bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10544578357693160553noreply@blogger.comBlogger16125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-833299890084677302.post-5950294212262452332016-02-21T14:03:00.004-08:002016-02-21T14:38:18.407-08:00How to Calculate Battery Charging Time via Solar Panel <br />
<b>Given: </b><br />
Kia Sportage 12 Volt Car Battery 60 AH (ampere-hour) capacity<br />
ALLPOWERS solar charger 18 volts, 7.5 watts, 0.4 amperes max <br />
Mono-crystalline silicon panel <br />
* No-load voltage: 18-23VDC<br />
* Load voltage: 18V<br />
* Output current: 270-410 mAh (0.27A-0.4A)<br />
* Size: 320 x 128 x 4mm / 12.6 * 5.0 * 0.12 inch<br />
* Weight:0.323 kg / 11.4oz<br />
<b><br />Attention:</b><br />
Unplug the charger at night, for it needs sunlight to charge devices<br />
<br />
<b><br />FACTORS AFFECTING BATTERY CHARGING TIME</b><br />
- Battery state: the more the battery is discharged, the longer it takes to charge<br />
- Battery rating: the more the battery AH capacity, the longer the charging time<br />
- Charging rate: this is the Ampere rating of the charger (output current)<br />
- Sun intensity: the clearer, brighter sky, the more voltage and more amperes from the sun <br />
- Sun hours: amount of hours of sunlight during the day of the geographic location<br />
- Charger efficiency: for mono-crystalline solar chargers, 85-90%<br />
- Temperature: Colder temperatures means longer charging time<br />
<b><br /><br />Assumptions:</b><br />
Sun hours: 4 hours, average cloudy day<br />
Location coordinates: Latitude = 48 N, Longitude = 123 W <br />
Charging rate: average output current = (0.27A + 0.4A)/2 = 0.33 amps<br />
Charger efficiency: 85%<br />
Battery state of charge: 50%<br />
<br />
<b><br />12 Volt Battery State of Charge:</b><br />
Volts -- % Charged<br />
12.6 ---- 100 %<br />
12.5 ---- 90 % <br />
12.4 ---- 80 %<br />
12.3 ---- 70 %<br />
12.2 ---- 60 %<br />
12.0 ---- 50 %<br />
11.9 ---- 40 %<br />
11.8 ---- 30 %<br />
11.6 ---- 20 %<br />
11.3 ---- 10 % <br />
10.5 ---- 0 %<br />
<br />
<br />
<b><br />CHARGE TIME CALCULATION<br /><br />Step 1: Calculate Average Daily Ampere-Hour of Charger</b><br />
<br />
Ave Daily Ah = Ave Charging rate x Sun hours x Charger efficiency<br />
<br />
Ave Daily Ah = 0.33 Amps x ( 4 hours/day ) x 0.85 <br />
<br />
Ave Daily Ah = 1 Ah/day<br />
<br />
<br />
<b><br />Step 2: Calculate Battery Capacity Energy Top Up Amount</b><br />
<br />
Battery Top Up Amount = Battery Capacity x State of Charge<br />
<br />
Battery Top Up Amount = 60 Ah x 50%<br />
<br />
Battery Top Up Amount = 30 Ah<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Step 3: Calculate Battery Charging Time</b><br />
<br />
Battery Charging Time = Battery Top Up Amount/Ave Daily Ah<br />
<br />
Battery Charging Time = 30 Ah/1 Ah per day<br />
<br />
Battery Charging Time = 30 days (1 month)<br />
<br />
<br />Jeane's bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10544578357693160553noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-833299890084677302.post-31272462058198401312015-05-18T18:49:00.001-07:002015-05-18T18:49:34.839-07:00CHARGING CAR BATTERY IS BETTER THAN BOOSTING SEVERAL TIMES<b>Benefits of Trickle Charging vs Jump-Starting:</b><br />- Safer<br />- No risk of battery explosion<br />- Prevents sulfuric acid release<br />- Lesser bodily harm/lesser accidents<br />- Cheaper (compared to wasting fuel driving for over 3 hours to charge battery)<br />- Possibility of damaging the onboard computers<br />- Voltage spike can do damage over time<br />- Sudden inrush of current repeatedly is bad compared to slowly trickle charging<br />- After jump starting, your alternator will work hard to charge the dead battery<br />- Prolongs the life of the alternator<br />- Makes battery last longer <br /><br /><br />Jeane's bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10544578357693160553noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-833299890084677302.post-3329706603762773892014-10-13T21:45:00.000-07:002014-10-13T21:49:44.822-07:002 seasons (7 months) car idling fuel consumption - 15 min/wk<br />
<b>* Average Fuel Consumption at Idle:</b><br />
half gallon per hour<br />
2 Liters per Hour<br />
1 Liter per 30 minutes<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Car info:</b><br />
4 cylinder<br />
2 liter engine<br />
automatic transmission<br />
20 miles per gallon fuel economy<br />
32 km per gallon fuel economy<br />
7 km per liter fuel economy<br />
<br />
<b><br />Average speed:</b><br />
80 km/hr highway speed<br />
50 km/hr city speed<br />
65 km/hr average speed<br />
<br />
<b><br />Full Tank fuel consumption analysis:</b><br />
50 Liter (13 Gallons) fuel tank capacity (full tank)<br />
500 km driving range at full tank fuel<br />
7 hours drive at 65 km/h to empty a full tank fuel<br />
7 km per liter fuel consumption<br />
<br />
<b><br />Average Fuel Consumption per Hour of Driving:</b><br />
50 km per hour<br />
-------------------- = 7 Liters per Hour<br />
7 km per Liter <b><br /><br /><br />Fuel Cost per Hour:</b><br />
7 Liters per hour x $1.30 per Liter = $10 per hour<br />
<br />
<b><br />Total Driving Time per Full Tank Fuel:</b><br />
7 hours drive to empty a full tank fuel = 420 minutes<br />
<br />
<b><br />How long until my fuel tank goes empty at 7 months idle:</b><br />
not driving my car for 7 months (winter and spring season)<br />
30 weeks in 2 seasons (7 months)<br />
<br />
420 minutes<br />
----------------- = 15 minutes idle per week<br />
30 weeks<br />
<br />
<b><br />Fuel Consumption at 15 minutes driving:</b><br />
7 liters per hour<br />
---------------------------------- = 1.75 liters per 15 minutes <br />
4 fifteen minutes per hour <br />
<br />
<b><br />Conservative Fuel Consumption at 7 months idle (15 minutes per week -> 1 hour per month):</b><br />
1.75 liters x 4 per month x 7 months = 50 Liters (full tank)<br />
<br />
<b><br /></b>
<b>* Average "Actual" Fuel Consumption at 7 months idle (15 minutes per week -> 1 hour per month):</b><br />
Using the data:<br />
1 Liter fuel per 30 minutes idle<br />
0.5 Liter fuel per 15 minutes idle<br />
<br />
0.5 liter x 4 per month x 7 months = 15 liters (1/3 fuel tank)<br />
<br />Jeane's bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10544578357693160553noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-833299890084677302.post-6533307109300566992014-10-08T20:25:00.000-07:002014-10-08T20:26:18.990-07:00Bidewen cheapest electric car in the world mass-produced<br />
Bidewen sells through Alibaba the cheapest electric car at $5500. <br />
<br />
This is a big challenge to the big auto companies such as Nissan, Tesla, Mitsubishi, Renault and other big manufacturers of electric cars.<br />
<br />
Produce cheap electric cars, affordable and environmentally friendly.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Company Profile:</b><br />
<br />
Shandong Bidewen Power Technology Co., Ltd.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://bidewen.en.alibaba.com/company_profile.html">http://bidewen.en.alibaba.com/company_profile.html</a><br />
<br />
Main Products: Electric Bike, Electric Scooter, Electric Car, Electric Tricycle<br />
<br />
Location: Shandong, China (Mainland)<br />
<br />
Year Established: 2007<br />
<br />
Number Of Employees: Over 1000 People<br />
<br />
Total Revenue: Over US$100 Million<br />
<br />
Certifications: ISO9001,ISO9001<br />
<br />
<br />
<h3>
2014 Bidewen D50 Electric Car </h3>
<br />
FOB Price: US $ 5500 - 8500 / Piece <br />
<br />
Made in: China<br />
Model: D50 (available in 5 models)<br />
Year: 2014<br />
Brand Name: BYVIN<br />
Doors: 4<br />
Seats: 4<br />
<br />
Power: 3-5 kw<br />
MOTOR: 3KW - 4KW<br />
Max speed (km/h): 50 km/hr<br />
Range, Running distance: 100-180 km per charge<br />
BATTERY: 60V 100AH; 48V 150AH; 48V 200AH; 72V 150AH<br />
Battery type: Gel battery<br />
<br />
Gear Box: Automatic<br />
Steering: Left<br />
Drive: FWD<br />
Material of body: Steel<br />
<br />
L*W*H (mm): 3320 x 1540 x 1480<br />
Wheel base(mm): 2260<br />
Curb weight (kg): 760-940<br />
Max climbing incline (%): 20 <br />
<br />
More Info:<br />
<a href="http://bidewen.en.alibaba.com/product/717611937-201007927/2014_new_electric_car.html">http://bidewen.en.alibaba.com/product/717611937-201007927/2014_new_electric_car.html</a><br />
<br />Jeane's bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10544578357693160553noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-833299890084677302.post-77159734977004344672014-10-08T20:18:00.000-07:002014-10-08T20:18:16.498-07:00Total number of electric cars in the world<b>Electric Vehicles:</b><br />- Today (2014), the total number of electric vehicles in the world is 5% of all global vehicles or 3 million units<br />- Electric vehicles include:<br />-- electric road vehicles <br />-- electric rail vehicles<br />-- electric abovewater (surface) vessels<br />-- electric underwater vessels<br />-- electric aircraft<br />-- electric space vehicles<br /><br /><br /><b>Electric Cars:</b><br />- By year 2020, the total number of electric cars in the world will be 10% of all vehicles worldwide or<br />
6 million units<br /><br /><br /><br />
<h3>
300,000 approx. highway-capable electric cars:</h3>
- Source: <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electric_cars">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electric_cars</a> <br />- Data info:<br />-- highway-capable electric cars<br />-- light utility electric vehicles<br />-- date of manufacture: 2008 to 2014<br /><br /><b>As of June 2014:</b><br /><br />Nissan Leaf - 124,000<br />Tesla Model S - 39,163<br />Mitsubishi i-MiEV family - 32,000<br />Renault Kangoo Z.E. - 14,542<br />Renault Zoe - 12,631<br />Chery QQ3 EV - 11,528<br />Smart electric drive - 8,800<br />BMW i3 - 6,873<br />JAC J3 EV - 6,731<br />Mitsubishi Minicab MiEV - 5,662<br />Kandi EV - 5,329<br />BYD e6 - 5,059<br />Volkswagen e-Up! - 4,952<br />Renault Fluence Z.E. - 3,894<br />Ford Focus Electric - 3,327<br />Bolloré Bluecar - 3,131<br />Tesla Roadster - 2,500<br /><br /><b>TOTAL: 290,122 </b><br />Jeane's bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10544578357693160553noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-833299890084677302.post-50594379504326562362014-09-15T17:03:00.004-07:002014-09-15T17:05:37.117-07:002014 Price Comparison of All-electric Vehicles (Battery-Electric Cars)<br />
Below is a comparison of this year's (2014) all-electric vehicles with the following criteria:<br />
- Price<br />
- Battery<br />
- Range<br />
- Miles per gallon gasoline equivalent - MPGe<br />
- Electric Motor Power<br />
<br />
Vehicles compared (prices in US dollars): <br />
1. Nissan Leaf<br />
2. Chevrolet Spark EV<br />
3. Ford Focus EV<br />
4. Tesla Model S <br />
<br />
<br />
<b>2014 Nissan Leaf</b><br />
Price: $29,830<br />
Battery: 24 kWh battery<br />
Range: 75 miles (EPA)<br />
MPG: 115 MPGe<br />
Electric Motor: 80 kW motor<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>2014 Chevrolet Spark EV</b><br />
Price: $27,495<br />
Battery: 20 kWh battery<br />
Range: 82 miles (EPA)<br />
MPG: 119 MPGe<br />
Electric Motor: 110 kW motor<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>2014 Ford Focus EV</b><br />
Price: $35,995<br />
Battery: 23 kWh battery<br />
Range: 76 miles (EPA)<br />
MPG: 105 MPGe<br />
Electric Motor: 107 kW motor<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>2014 Tesla Model S </b><br />
Price: $69,900-$93,400<br />
Battery: 60-85 kWh battery<br />
Range: 208-265 miles (EPA)<br />
MPG: 89-95 MPGe<br />
Electric Motor: 270-310 kW motor<br />
<br />
<br />
================================<br />
<br />
<br />
Compare with <b>2014 KIA SPORTAGE Automatic GASOLINE-POWERED</b> <br />
<br />
Base price :<br />
$25,195 <br />
<br />
Engine Type :<br />
I-4 2.4 litres<br />
<br />
Transmission:<br />
Automatic<br />
<br />
Power :<br />
182 hp @ 6,000 rpm (136 kW) <br />
<br />
Torque :<br />
177 lb·ft @ 4,000 rpm (240 N·m) <br />
<br />
Induction :<br />
Atmospheric <br />
<br />
Power to weight ratio :<br />
94.8 W/kg <br />
<br />
Bore :<br />
88 mm <br />
<br />
Stroke :<br />
97 mm <br />
<br />
Fuel type :<br />
Regular Gasoline (internal-combustion engine) <br />
<br />
<span style="background-color: yellow;"><b>CO2 emissions :</b></span><br />
3,956 kg/year <br />
<br />
Drivetrain :<br />
FWD <br />
<br />
Vehicle type :<br />
SUV <br />
<br />
Category :<br />
Compact SUVs under $40,000 <br />
<br />
Fuel efficiency / Autonomy : <br />
City :<br />
10.0 l/100km <br />
<br />
Highway :<br />
6.9 l/100km <br />
<br />
Autonomy :<br />
580 km <br />
<br />
<br />Jeane's bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10544578357693160553noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-833299890084677302.post-71732957401318291902014-09-15T16:57:00.001-07:002014-09-15T16:57:37.440-07:00Driving Victoria to Comox is 50% cheaper (half the price of bus ticket)<br />Average cost of bus: $60<br /><br />Cost of driving: $35<br /><br />Example data: Currency in Canadian Dollar<br /><br />Driving Distance: 140 Miles / 225 Km. <br /><br />Driving Time: 3 hours<br /><br />Vehicle: KIA 2008 SPORTAGE SUV, 2 Liter, Automatic<br /><br />Miles per Gallon:<br />21 miles per gallon Combined<br />19 miles per gallon City<br />24 miles per gallon Highway<br /><br />Kilometers per Liter: 9 km/Li<br /><br />Fuel cost per Liter: $1.30 per Liter of gas<br />Fuel cost per gallon: $5 per gallon of gasoline <br /><br />Miles per dollar of gas: 21/5 = 4 miles per dollar<br />Kilometers per dollar of gas: 9/1.3 = 6.5 km/dollar<br /><br /><b>Fuel Cost to drive from Victoria to Comox, BC: </b><br />140/4 = $35<br />225/6.5 = $35<br /><br /><b>Conclusion:</b><br />Driving from Victoria, BC to Comox, BC is half the price of bus ticket.<br /><br /><br />Jeane's bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10544578357693160553noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-833299890084677302.post-25676504728884193152014-08-17T08:39:00.001-07:002014-08-17T08:39:09.490-07:00How to make Simulation Speed in Mapfactor Navigator faster<br />Menu<br />Settings<br />Navigation<br />Vehicle Type<br />Add new<br />Faster Simulation Car -> name of car<br />Ok<br />Vehicle Type -> Car<br />Maximum Speed -> 140 km/h<br />Ok<br />Road Restrictions<br />Change all the speeds to 140 km/h<br />Preference -> 140 km/h <br />Uncheck "Use speed limits"<br /><br /><br /><b>REMOVE SPEED WARNINGS</b><br />Menu<br />Speed Warnings<br />Speed Warning threshold and sound -> Off<br /><br /><br /><b>CHANGE ROUTING MODE</b><br />Menu<br />Settings<br />Navigation<br />Routing Mode <br /><br /><br />Jeane's bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10544578357693160553noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-833299890084677302.post-80623903965188309702014-06-23T17:53:00.004-07:002014-06-23T17:53:33.273-07:00Transmission Fluid flush frequency<br />
Modern transmissions are designed to have “fill-for-life” fluids, however transmission experts recommend transaxle/transmission fluid be flushed/changed periodically to prolong working life of the transmission.<br />
<br />
Traditionally, the transmission is FLUSHED every 30,000 miles [48,000 km] or every 2 years (24 months) whichever comes first.<br />
<br />
Automatic transmission fluid should be CHANGED every 10,000 miles [16,000 km] or every 8 months whichever comes first.<br />
<br />
Replacing the transmission fluid is recommended because of these reasons:<br />
- driving in the city (frequent stop-and-go)<br />
- hauling heavy loads<br />
- trailer towing<br />
- snow plowing<br />
<br />
The above reasons will cause the transmission fluid to overheat and deteriorate faster.<br />
<br />
Overheating causes breakdown of the transmission fluid which in turn causes transmission failure. This is indicated by a dark or cherry red color of the fluid and bubbles appearing on dipstick, meaning that its viscosity started to wear down as well as fluid showing signs of deterioration.<br />
<br />
This will eventually cause the friction clutch plates inside the transmission gearbox to fail their frictional holding ability and start to slip. Once the slipping happens, the transmission fluid will become hot. This will lead to failure in shifting gear. The radiator or cooler is not sufficient to cool down this overheating problem.<br />
<br />
It costs around $100 to $200 for a transmission flush.<br />
<br />
It costs around $3,000 to $5,000 to rebuild a transmission. Do the recommended maintenance routine to avoid getting to this point.<br />
<br />
<b><br /></b>
<b>*** 2008 KIA SPORTAGE ***</b><br />
<br />
For example purposes, according to the 2008 KIA SPORTAGE owners manual, these are the recommended fluids:<br />
<br />
1. Engine oil --> API Service SJ, SL or above; ILSAC GF-3 or above [SAE 5W-20, 5W-30 for temperatures -30 to 50 C (-10 to 120 F)]<br />
<br />
2. Automatic transaxle fluid --> DIAMOND ATF SP-III or SK ATF SP-III [Replace every 32,000 km or 16 months]<br />
<br />
3. Power steering fluid --> PSF-III<br />
<br />
4. Brake/Clutch fluid --> FMVSS116 DOT-3 or DOT-4<br />
<br />
5. Coolant --> Ethylene glycol base for aluminum radiator<br />
<br />
6. Fuel --> Unleaded gasoline with AKI 87 or higher<br />
<br />
<br />
<b><br /></b>
<b>THEORY: "LEAVE THE TRANNY ALONE", IF IT'S WORKING FINE"</b><br />
<br />
The problems with flushing can be:<br />
1. Introduction of foreign particles, grit, or dirt when backflushing, draining and changing the filter.<br />
2. Replacement of ATF fluid that is not compatible with factory fluid, thereby losing fluid friction properties (for holding clutches).<br />
3. The clutches in the AT will wear in the passage of time and wear particles actually help keep the transmission from slipping as it ages.<br />
4. When you flush, the tranny loses those wear particles and thus cause slipping.<br />
<br />
<br />
<div>
<br /></div>
Jeane's bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10544578357693160553noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-833299890084677302.post-72266400633559549692014-06-20T01:33:00.001-07:002014-08-12T02:43:39.922-07:00Google Maps Driving Directions Online Simulators<br />
1. Gaiagi Driving Simulator<br />
<a href="http://www.gaiagi.com/driving-simulator/">http://www.gaiagi.com/driving-simulator/</a><br />
<br />
<br />
2. Google Maps Street View API Driving Directions<br />
<a href="http://gmaps-samples.googlecode.com/svn/trunk/streetview/streetview_directions.html">http://gmaps-samples.googlecode.com/svn/trunk/streetview/streetview_directions.html</a><br />
<br />
<br />
3. Google Maps Street view Player<br />
<a href="http://www.brianfolts.com/driver/">http://www.brianfolts.com/driver/</a><br />
<br />
<br />
4. Google Earth Plug-in Driving Simulator<br />
<a href="http://earth-api-samples.googlecode.com/svn/trunk/demos/drive-simulator/index.html">http://earth-api-samples.googlecode.com/svn/trunk/demos/drive-simulator/index.html</a><br />
<br />
<br />
5. Gmap 3D<br />
<a href="http://gmap3d.com/?r=3ddrive">http://gmap3d.com/?r=3ddrive</a><br />
<br />
<br />
6. Guzman - Drive your car in Google Earth<br />
<a href="http://www.guzman.it/guida/">http://www.guzman.it/guida/</a><br />
<br />
<br />
7. A Travel<br />
<a href="http://atravel.co/driving-simulator/">http://atravel.co/driving-simulator/</a><br />
<br />
<br />
8. University of Louisiana at Lafayette<br />
<a href="http://anisette.ucs.louisiana.edu/Student/Organizations/CSSA/ULL_GE/ULLGoogleEarth_DrivingSimulator.html">http://anisette.ucs.louisiana.edu/Student/Organizations/CSSA/ULL_GE/ULLGoogleEarth_DrivingSimulator.html</a><br />
<br />
<br />
9. Google Earth Library - Google Earth Vehicle Simulators<br />
<a href="http://www.gelib.com/simulators.htm">http://www.gelib.com/simulators.htm</a><br />
<br />
<br />
10. Frame Synthesis 3D Driving Simulator<br />
<a href="http://framesynthesis.com/drivingsimulator/maps3d/">http://framesynthesis.com/drivingsimulator/maps3d/</a><br />
<br />
<br />
11. Street View Traveler Android App<br />
Info: <a href="http://www.androidpit.com/en/android/market/apps/app/com.jimin.streetviewtraveler/Street-View-Traveler">http://www.androidpit.com/en/android/market/apps/app/com.jimin.streetviewtraveler/Street-View-Traveler</a><br />
Video: <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a-UJQjqfUrI">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a-UJQjqfUrI</a><br />
<br />
<br />
12. MapFactor Navigator Free<br /><a href="http://navigatorfree.mapfactor.com/en/">http://navigatorfree.mapfactor.com/en/</a><br /><b>Note:</b><br />Download the Setup Utility, Language, Voice and Map for your Region.<br />There is a PC Navigator for Windows computers and a mobile version for smartphones.<br />After you download the above, you can search your start and destination routes.<br />Best thing is --- you can <span style="background-color: yellow;"><b>Simulate Driving Route</b></span> (this is the cool feature that I like...!!!)<br /><span style="background-color: yellow;"><i><span style="background-color: lime;">Thank you for making this GPS Navigation software for free to the public use.</span></i></span><br /><br />
<br />Jeane's bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10544578357693160553noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-833299890084677302.post-12835766088023703322014-06-20T00:07:00.004-07:002014-06-20T00:07:59.517-07:00Driving while Parking Brake is On<br />
The following will result when you FORGET to disable your Parking Brake and therefore engaged while driving:<br />
<br />
1. Damage to Parking Brake<br />
- overheating from friction<br />
- melting the brake lining adhesive<br />
- wear down brake linings<br />
- warping of parking brake elements<br />
<br />
2. Damage to Main Brakes<br />
– friction and overheating results in damage to main brakes if used as emergency brake<br />
<br />
3. Additional Engine Load<br />
- slower speed than normal<br />
- engine works harder to overcome braking power of parking brake<br />
- more fuel consumption than normal<br />
<br />
4. Wear on Tires<br />
- faster wear on tires where parking brake is installed<br />
<br />
5. Smoking<br />
<br />
6. Smell of burning<br />
<br />
7. Vibrations<br />
<br />
8. Axle seals and bearings possible damage<br />
<br />
9. Replacement of brake pads and draining of brake fluid<br />
<br />
10. Cost from $150 up to $500 depending on severity of damage<br />
<br />
<b><br /></b>
<b>Important Before Putting your Gear Shifting Lever to Drive (D):</b><br />
1. Disengage the Parking Brake - it should be parallel (flat, horizontal) and NOT ANGLED.<br />
2. Visually check your Parking Brake to ensure it's NOT ON.<br />
3. Before you drive, check your Dashboard for Red Alerts from the car's computer.<br />
<br />
Feel your car, if you feel something is out of the ordinary, feeling a resistance to the vehicle's normal movement/speed, you might have forgotten to de-activate your parking/emergency brake.<br />
<br />
A helpful advise to learners and new drivers (seasoned drivers as well)... don't be overly excited to drive that car, check your parking brake and take care of yourself and your vehicle... so it can take you to wherever you want. If your car were a live horse, it surely will feel hurt and complain!<br />
<br />Jeane's bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10544578357693160553noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-833299890084677302.post-86537994623074984922014-06-20T00:06:00.002-07:002014-06-20T00:06:47.502-07:00Average Life of Cars<br />
Most modern gasoline-powered cars built after 2001 will last an average of 10 years or 150,000 miles (240,000 km).<br />
<br />
The statement above is true if the car is well-maintained and properly taken care of.<br />
<br />
With regular maintenance recommended by manufacturers such as oil changes and fluid changes, all cars according to certified mechanics will have an average life of 200,000 miles (320,000 km) up to 250,000 miles (400,000 km).<br />
<br />
Japanese cars are proven to easily achieve and surpass these average life expectancies.<br />
<br />
Honda is known to be still in good running condition after 300,000 miles (480,000 km).<br />
<br />
Toyota can also reach 300,000 miles (480,000 km).<br />
<br />
Mazda and Kia also easily make it to 200,000 miles or 320,000 kilometers.<br />
<br />
Ford is able to get to 200,000 miles (320,000 km) if properly maintained.<br />
<br />
With most vehicles, the key to long and productive life is:<br />
1. Proper maintenance and repair.<br />
2. Good driving habits.<br />
<br />Jeane's bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10544578357693160553noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-833299890084677302.post-40186724934729140482014-06-15T08:44:00.003-07:002014-06-15T08:44:52.652-07:0030 Things to Look for when Buying a Used Car<br />1. Tires - car is on level ground, no tires sagging<br /> - worn evenly and they should match<br /> - surface of tire feathering (bad alignment)=worn steering/suspension components, pothole down the street, frame damage<br /> - spare tire - compare the tread to other tires<br /><br />2. Paint job - rust spots, dents or scratches, waviness, roughness<br /><br />3. Trunk - rust, water entry, cracks or holes<br /><br />4. Under Hood - dents, damage, rust, decal VIN missing=fender replaced<br /><br />5. Hoses and belts - cracks, radiator hoses not soft<br /><br />6. Seats - tears, rips, stains, or other type of damage<br /><br />7. Air-conditioning - R134 coolant are 1993 or newer, sticker AC Condenser<br /><br />8. Odometer - mileage, 10,000 to 15,000 miles a year <br /><br />9. Test drive - drive in ramp = ultimate test of a vehicle (test hard, don't be gentle!!!)<br /> - ability to accelerate<br /> - suspension<br /> - Kia, Jetta (bad reputation?)<br /> - Accelerate hard<br /> - Corner sharply<br /> - Brake quickly<br /> - Brake hard - pedal feels spongy while braking hard = bleeding <br /> - stiff and unyielding = bad brake booster<br /> - pedal shakes beneath your foot = need new rotors<br /> - Car not shaking at high speed (shaking=bad alignment, control arms, bushings, tie rod =costs hudreds of dollars $$$$$$)<br /> - Automatic transmission - jolts into gear when you accelerate evenly = bad transmission, NOT FIXABLE <br /><br />10. Service history - past accidents, performances, repairs, problems, odometer discrepancy<br /><br />11. Brakes - pressing down hard=not slide, no vibration, no strange noises, not swerve <br /><br />12. Engine - leaks, corrosion, <br /> - engine block - dark brown oil stains=gasket leak<br /> - brake fluid<br /> - brake fluid reservoir - not leaking<br /> - belts should look new - no cracks, not drying<br /><br />13. Oil - remove oil filler cap=no foam residue, no head gasket leak, not chocolate Frosty<br /><br />14. Coolant - clear, if brown coolant=not flushed, leaky head gasket<br /><br />15. Transmission fluid - pull dipstick, should be pink or red, not dark, not look or smell burnt, be full (check with the engine running)<br /><br />16. Brake fluid - clear to slightly yellowish, tea-colored, not dark<br /><br />17. Timing belt - most important belt in the engine, costly to replace<br /> - steel timing chain, lifespan timing belt 60-100+ thousand miles<br /><br />18. Body Frame - Never buy a frame damaged car<br /> - Check saddle (connects the front fenders and holds the top of the radiator)=not welded on either side, it should be bolted in<br /> - Top of Fender bolts inside the hood - no scratch marks (fenders not replaced or realigned (after a crash))<br /> - Door jambs - no welds<br /><br />19. Trepidation - Check for small trepidation (trembling, shaking, vibration) at 45 / 55 / 65 / 75 mph<br /> - Slight trepidation during small speed interval=wear of mechanical parts $1500 repair (joints/arms, uneven wear front tire(s)<br /><br />20. Sounds Check - sounds, trepidation, clunking noise when making 90 degrees turn at low speed=wear at the front of car: joints need change<br /><br />21. Computer - check errors<br /> - temperature, oil pressure, battery gages not maxed out <br /><br /><br />22. All Lights, Radio, CD, etc - check when car not moving<br /><br />23. Exhaust system or under-body rust - under the car=black spots on the exhaust system (leaking)<br /> - inspect frame, unibody damage, chassis damage<br /><br />24. Bring trusted friend or mechanic<br /><br />25. Do not pay sticker price - price is negotiable item<br /> - offer lower price (if price is $10,000, negotiate at least $1500 off: 15% off)<br /><br />26. Private Car preferable - how much cost to repair if you buy it (repair cost reduce the asking price)<br /><br />27. Buying car from reputable service center - if buying from dealer with no service center = have the car checked out by your mechanic!<br /><br />28. Safety Certifications<br /><br />29. Emissions tested (failed inspection=can not be registered by vehicle registration agency)<br /><br />30. WARRANTY & ASSURANCE - "you're saying the car is in good condition... if there are issues and problems, can your repair it free?<br /><br /><br />Jeane's bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10544578357693160553noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-833299890084677302.post-44875253929509974762012-11-17T07:00:00.003-08:002012-11-17T07:00:35.059-08:00Energy conversion in an Automobile or car<br />simple energy conversion in a CAR (automobile):<br /><br /><br />Fuel-->Engine-->Alternator-->Voltage regulator--><br /><br />-->Car Electrical system-->Car Power line-->Motor-->Starter<br /><br /><br /><br />Fuel<br /><br />Gasoline or petrol is a petroleum-derived liquid mixture, primarily used as fuel in internal combustion engines<br /><br /><br /><br />Engine<br /><br />A machine designed for the conversion of energy into useful mechanical motion<br /><br />From Latin in + gen (gignere = create, beget)<br /><br />When an engine's output is mechanical energy, it is called a prime mover<br /><br /><br /><br />Alternator<br /><br />An alternator is an electromechanical device that converts mechanical energy to alternating current electrical energy <br /><br />Also called AC electrical generator <br /><br />A car alternator powers the automobile's electrical system , and charges the battery when the car is running<br /><br /><br /><br />Voltage regulator<br /><br />A device or circuit that maintains constant output voltage in spite of changing line voltage and/or load current<br /><br /><br /><br />Car electrical system<br /><br />The car's electrical system supplies power to the car's radio, lights, clock, cellular phone, cigarette lighter, rear window defrosters, electric door locks, etc.<br /><br /><br /><br />Car power line<br /><br />Power generated is transferred through power lines then to the car's accessories and auxillary equipment that consumes power<br /><br /><br /><br />Motor<br /><br />A device that converts electrical energy into mechanical energy<br /><br /><br /><br />Starter<br /><br />A starter is a device driven by an electric motor that initiates rotational motion in an internal combustion engine before it can power itself<br />Jeane's bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10544578357693160553noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-833299890084677302.post-45624242280337188112012-11-12T06:36:00.004-08:002012-11-12T06:39:32.751-08:00Troubleshooting and Repair of Internal Combustion Engine (Diesel, Gasoline):<br />
<i><br /></i>
<i>Listed below are some of the common engine problems or troubles and their possible causes</i><br />
<br />
<b><br /></b>
<b>ENGINE DOES NOT START</b><br />
<br />
- Empty fuel tank<br />
<br />
- Fuel is old, dirty, or contaminated<br />
<br />
- Fuel pump not working<br />
<br />
- Fuel supply hose damaged, distorted, or improperly attached<br />
<br />
- Inappropriate, clogged, or faulty spark plugs<br />
<br />
- Loose plug wires<br />
<br />
- Starter motor is not operational<br />
<br />
- Battery is undercharged<br />
<br />
- Ignition coil not functional<br />
<br />
- Broken ignition switch<br />
<br />
- Faulty wiring and connection problems in the ignition system<br />
<br />
<b><br /></b>
<b><br /></b>
<b>Possible causes: Engine stalls</b><br />
<br />
- Fuel supply hose damaged, distorted, or improperly attached<br />
<br />
- Fuel tank empty<br />
<br />
- Fuel filter is clogged up<br />
<br />
- Fuel is old, dirty, or contaminated<br />
<br />
- Fuel supply hose damaged, distorted, or improperly attached<br />
<br />
- Closed fuel tank vent<br />
<br />
- Inoperative, or clogged thermostat<br />
<br />
- Wrong engine oil<br />
<br />
- Spark plugs defective, wrong, plugged, or incorrect spark-plug gap<br />
<br />
<br />
<b><br /></b>
<b>Possible causes: Engine knocks</b><br />
<br />
- clogged Carburetor<br />
<br />
- Ignition Distributor problems<br />
<br />
- plugged fuel Injectors<br />
<br />
- Valve timing fails, or faulty<br />
<br />
- failed or loose timing belt tensioner<br />
<br />
- lean air-to-fuel mixture<br />
<br />
- using fuel of lower than recommended Octane Rating<br />
<br />
- too high engine compression<br />
<br />
- Anti-Knock sensors malfunction<br />
<br />
- Engine is too hot<br />
<br />
- lack of proper exhaust gas recirculation<br />
<br />
- air conditioning compressor fails or ices up<br />
<br />
- Carbon deposits in the combustion chamber, pistons, cylinders, valves, or exhaust system lines<br />
<br />
- Faulty or defective main crankshaft bearings<br />
<br />
- water pump bearing is worn out<br />
<br />
- Alternator rotor has worn bearings<br />
<br />
- Flywheel is broken or has cracks<br />
<br />
<br />
<b><br /></b>
<b>Possible causes: Engine idle not smooth</b><br />
<br />
- Carburetor is flooded<br />
<br />
- Fuel hose crushed or twisted<br />
<br />
- Fuel filter clogged<br />
<br />
- Fuel being used is contaminated or old and stale<br />
<br />
- Throttle linkage sticking<br />
<br />
- Spark plugs defective, wrong, plugged, or incorrect spark-plug gap<br />
<br />
- Ignition problems occur in one or more cylinders<br />
<br />
- Ignition wires maybe cracking or broken<br />
<br />
- improper connection at both distributor cap and spark plugs<br />
<br />
- clogged catalytic converter<br />
<br />
- exhaust system is restricted or has blockage<br />
<br />
<br />
<b><br /></b>
<b>Possible causes: Engine speed is low or not increasing</b><br />
<br />
- Fuel filter is clogged<br />
<br />
- Fuel supply hose incorrectly connected, broken, or twisted<br />
<br />
- Fuel is old, dirty, or contaminated<br />
<br />
- Spark plugs defective, wrong, plugged, or incorrect spark-plug gap<br />
<br />
- Low engine oil level<br />
<b><br /></b>
<b><br /></b>
<b><br /></b>
<b>Possible causes: Engine smokes</b><br />
<br />
- engine is burning oil<br />
<br />
- worn or broken piston rings<br />
<br />
- worn or damaged cylinders<br />
<br />
- worn valve guide or valve guide seals<br />
<br />
- engine is burning coolant or transmission fluid<br />
<br />
- leaking head gasket<br />
<br />
- broken or cracked cylinder head<br />
<br />
- Air filter is clogged<br />
<br />
- Air/fuel mixture is too rich <br />
<br />
- stuck automatic choke in the carburetor<br />
<br />
- leaky fuel injector<br />
<br />
- fuel pressure is too much<br />
<br />
<br />
<b><br /></b>
<b>Possible causes: Engine overheating</b><br />
<br />
- Overloading<br />
<br />
- Water pump failure<br />
<br />
- loose water pump impeller<br />
<br />
- Clogged water lines<br />
<br />
- Defective or clogged Thermostat<br />
<br />
- Oil pump is faulty or not functional<br />
<br />
- Engine oil level is too low<br />
<br />
- Using old, contaminated, or incorrect engine oil<br />
<br />
- Using spark plugs with inappropriate heat-range<br />
<br />
- low coolant level, coolant leak, or poor coolant circulation<br />
<br />
- faulty coolant sensor or air trapped under the sensor<br />
<br />
- accumulated deposits in the water jackets<br />
<br />
- fan clutch slips or misses<br />
<br />
- cooling fan failure <br />
<br />
- broken, cracked radiator hose<br />
<br />
- ruptured or broken radiator cap<br />
<br />
- poor airflow through the radiator<br />
<br />
- Radiator is poor or inefficient<br />
<br />Jeane's bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10544578357693160553noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-833299890084677302.post-9524965564772742772012-11-12T06:31:00.001-08:002012-11-12T06:31:31.174-08:00Safe, Healthy, Responsible, Courteous and Defensive DRIVING: Do's and Don't's<br /><b>Do's:</b><br /><br />- Before you drive, you must be physically, mentally, and emotionally fit.<br /><br />- Know your vehicle before you drive it.<br /><br />- Plan your route in advance.<br /><br />- Gather adequate information.<br /><br />- Check weather forecasts ahead of time.<br /><br />- Always carry your driver's license, vehicle permit, and insurance when driving a motor vehicle.<br /><br />- Do a round check before you drive to see if your tires are OK and to check your car or vehicle's outside condition.<br /><br />- Put on your seat belt and make sure your passengers have put on their seat belts.<br /><br />- Make sure the child car seat is properly and firmly fitted.<br /><br />- Get into a position such that you have a clear view of the hood and at least 15 ft in front of the vehicle.<br /><br />- Adjust your seat in order for your feet to reach the accelerator and brake pedals easily.<br /><br />- Make sure your windows and mirrors are clean and clear from obstructions or obstacles.<br /><br />- Adjust and check your mirrors before you drive.<br /><br />- Know and check your blind spots.<br /><br />- Keep your headlights clean.<br /><br />- Turn on headlights at night and in poor conditions like fog, snow, or rain.<br /><br />- Drive with your vehicle's lighting system turned on at all times so that you're more visible to pedestrians and other drivers.<br /><br />- Always be alert and be aware of traffic and people around you.<br /><br />- Keep other drivers out of your blind spot.<br /><br />- Keep a safe distance or cushion space around your car.<br /><br />- Have a foreknowledge or anticipate other people's and other drivers' turns and movements.<br /><br />- Make allowances for other people and other drivers if ever they make mistakes.<br /><br />- Be polite, courteous and considerate.<br /><br />- Stay away from erratic drivers.<br /><br />- Steer smoothly and accurately.<br /><br />- Use the correct signals and make sure it can be seen clearly.<br /><br />- Follow the rules for turning left or right.<br /><br />- Obey the speed limits.<br /><br />- Obey the police.<br /><br />- Drive at a safe speed in bad weather, on school zones, hospitals, construction zones, and in heavy traffic.<br /><br />- Maintain a safe distance such that you can stop safely in an emergency situation.<br /><br />- Keep a safe braking distance between you and the vehicle ahead.<br /><br />- Be prepared to safely slow down and stop when fire trucks, police cars, or ambulances approach. <br /><br />- Be very careful when pedestrians, motorcyles, mopeds and bicycles make sudden turns or moves.<br /><br />- Whenever possible, keep away from big or large vehicles such as trucks, payloaders, farm machinery, huge trailers, etc.<br /><br />- Yield the right-of-way.<br /><br />- Look far ahead for stops, intersections, parked vehicles, etc.<br /><br />- Be prepared to stop at railway crossings, school crossings, school buses and pedestrian crossovers or crosswalks.<br /><br />- When backing up, watch for cyclists and be very careful for children especially when they're shorter than the trunk height.<br /><br />- When passing parked vehicles, watch for people opening doors.<br /><br />- Stop at a safe distance at streetcar stops.<br /><br />- When parking facing downhill, turn your front wheels towards the curb.<br /><br />- When parking facing uphill without a curb, turn your wheels such that your vehicle goes away from traffic in case it rolls.<br /><br />- If you miss an exit in a highway, take the next exit.<br /><br />- When having long drives or long trips, stop, rest and take breaks.<br /><br />- Be careful of using cellphones when driving.<br /><br />- Eliminate distractions by all means if possible.<br /><br />- Keep away and protect yourself from glare.<br /><br />- Slow down when raining or when the road is wet.<br /><br />- Keep away from puddles.<br /><br />- Steer in the direction of the skid.<br /><br />- Be prepared when driving in the winter, bring warm clothing, blanket, flashlight, cellphone, battery, shovel, food, etc. <br /><br />- Slow down and be careful of icy roads and black ice.<br /><br />- Pay attention to smog alerts.<br /><br /><br /><br /><b>Don't's:</b><br /><br />- Don't drive when you're sick or injured.<br /><br />- Don't drive when you've been drinking alcohol.<br /><br />- Don't drive when you've taken drugs or medication.<br /><br />- Don't drive when you're tired.<br /><br />- Don't drive when you're drowsy or sleepy.<br /><br />- Don't drive when you're upset or angry.<br /><br />- Don't put anything in your windows that will block your view.<br /><br />- Don't drive with only one headlight or if improperly aimed. <br /><br />- Don't overspeed. It is unsafe, dangerous and risky of speeding tickets.<br /><br />- Don't beat the traffic lights.<br /><br />- Don't race.<br /><br />- Don't cut a pedestrian, bicycle, motorcycle, or any other driver of a vehicle.<br /><br />- Don't make sudden lane changes.<br /><br />- Don't change lanes without giving the proper signal and without making sure it can be done safely.<br /><br />- Don't change lanes in or near an intersection.<br /><br />- Don't stop in an intersection.<br /><br />- Don't stop or reverse on the freeway in case you miss an exit.<br /><br />- Don't stop on the travelled portion of the road.<br /><br />- Don't overtake in dangerous situations or on unsafe distance.<br /><br />- Don't pass when you're close to a pedestrian crossing.<br /><br />- Don't park on a curve.<br /><br />- Don't park close to a fire hydrant, a public entrance, an intersection, or near a bridge.<br /><br />- Don't park and leave animals (e.g. pets) inside.<br /><br />- Don't get into the habit of driving aggresively.<br /><br />- Don't tailgate.<br /><br />- Don't get involved in arguments or emotional conversations while driving.<br /><br />- Don't follow emergency vehicles.<br /><br />- Don't steer, brake, or accelerate suddenly when driving in snow.<br /><br />- Don't panic in an emergency. Slow down as safe as you can and stop and ask for help. <br /><br />- Don't take chances. If you're unsure or in doubt, don't do it.<br /><br />- Don't forget to pray.<br />Jeane's bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10544578357693160553noreply@blogger.com1