Sunday, June 15, 2014
30 Things to Look for when Buying a Used Car
1. Tires - car is on level ground, no tires sagging
- worn evenly and they should match
- surface of tire feathering (bad alignment)=worn steering/suspension components, pothole down the street, frame damage
- spare tire - compare the tread to other tires
2. Paint job - rust spots, dents or scratches, waviness, roughness
3. Trunk - rust, water entry, cracks or holes
4. Under Hood - dents, damage, rust, decal VIN missing=fender replaced
5. Hoses and belts - cracks, radiator hoses not soft
6. Seats - tears, rips, stains, or other type of damage
7. Air-conditioning - R134 coolant are 1993 or newer, sticker AC Condenser
8. Odometer - mileage, 10,000 to 15,000 miles a year
9. Test drive - drive in ramp = ultimate test of a vehicle (test hard, don't be gentle!!!)
- ability to accelerate
- suspension
- Kia, Jetta (bad reputation?)
- Accelerate hard
- Corner sharply
- Brake quickly
- Brake hard - pedal feels spongy while braking hard = bleeding
- stiff and unyielding = bad brake booster
- pedal shakes beneath your foot = need new rotors
- Car not shaking at high speed (shaking=bad alignment, control arms, bushings, tie rod =costs hudreds of dollars $$$$$$)
- Automatic transmission - jolts into gear when you accelerate evenly = bad transmission, NOT FIXABLE
10. Service history - past accidents, performances, repairs, problems, odometer discrepancy
11. Brakes - pressing down hard=not slide, no vibration, no strange noises, not swerve
12. Engine - leaks, corrosion,
- engine block - dark brown oil stains=gasket leak
- brake fluid
- brake fluid reservoir - not leaking
- belts should look new - no cracks, not drying
13. Oil - remove oil filler cap=no foam residue, no head gasket leak, not chocolate Frosty
14. Coolant - clear, if brown coolant=not flushed, leaky head gasket
15. Transmission fluid - pull dipstick, should be pink or red, not dark, not look or smell burnt, be full (check with the engine running)
16. Brake fluid - clear to slightly yellowish, tea-colored, not dark
17. Timing belt - most important belt in the engine, costly to replace
- steel timing chain, lifespan timing belt 60-100+ thousand miles
18. Body Frame - Never buy a frame damaged car
- Check saddle (connects the front fenders and holds the top of the radiator)=not welded on either side, it should be bolted in
- Top of Fender bolts inside the hood - no scratch marks (fenders not replaced or realigned (after a crash))
- Door jambs - no welds
19. Trepidation - Check for small trepidation (trembling, shaking, vibration) at 45 / 55 / 65 / 75 mph
- Slight trepidation during small speed interval=wear of mechanical parts $1500 repair (joints/arms, uneven wear front tire(s)
20. Sounds Check - sounds, trepidation, clunking noise when making 90 degrees turn at low speed=wear at the front of car: joints need change
21. Computer - check errors
- temperature, oil pressure, battery gages not maxed out
22. All Lights, Radio, CD, etc - check when car not moving
23. Exhaust system or under-body rust - under the car=black spots on the exhaust system (leaking)
- inspect frame, unibody damage, chassis damage
24. Bring trusted friend or mechanic
25. Do not pay sticker price - price is negotiable item
- offer lower price (if price is $10,000, negotiate at least $1500 off: 15% off)
26. Private Car preferable - how much cost to repair if you buy it (repair cost reduce the asking price)
27. Buying car from reputable service center - if buying from dealer with no service center = have the car checked out by your mechanic!
28. Safety Certifications
29. Emissions tested (failed inspection=can not be registered by vehicle registration agency)
30. WARRANTY & ASSURANCE - "you're saying the car is in good condition... if there are issues and problems, can your repair it free?
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